Backpacking New Zealand | Backpackingmatt.com

backpackingmatt May 22, 2010

Crossing the Cook Strait With Interislander

As a backpacker or budget traveler in New Zealand, you’ll have a couple different options when planning your trip from the North to the South Island (I recommend this direction of travel).

While you have the option of flying – or even the option of skydiving (yes, skydiving) – I recommend you cross the Cook Strait with one of the two ferry operators that make the crossing each day – Interislander or Bluebridge. It’s an absolutely stunning journey on a clear day, and while flying between the two islands may save you time, it will also result in you missing one epic ferry trip.

Since arriving in New Zealand six months ago, I’ve crossed the Cook Strait more than a couple times. I recently reviewed my experience with Bluebridge. I wasn’t terribly impressed with the service they offered. I expected less amenities for a budget traveler with fares that represented this service. I got one, but not the other – read about my experience here.

Recently, I again needed to cross the strait which separates the two islands of New Zealand – two islands which while only separated by a 92 kilometer ferry journey might as well be separated by the full length of an ocean. They’re entirely different places, and both have so much to offer – but that’s a post for a different day.

Interislander runs three ferries between the North and South Islands up to 11 times each day. Each offer top notch facilities, and I recently made the journey on the Aratere. The ferry was fitted with a budget friendly cafeteria, a not quite so budget friendly bar, and plenty of room to stretch out and relax. If you’re not keen on taking in the views during the approximately three hour trip, you have the option of purchasing a ticket to a featured film in the on board cinema.

If you do want to take in the views, and you should, there are a number of different places on board to sit back, relax, and take in the experience. Leaving Wellington behind as you head south, you’ll get some excellent views of the city of Wellington and its surrounding suburbs. Soon after leaving port, you’ll enter the unprotected waters of the Cook Strait. On a clear day you’ll get beautiful views of the North Island behind you and the South Island in the distance. While the ferries in the Interislander fleet are all big vessels capable of carrying both passengers and vehicles, this is the main area where you run the risk of a rough crossing. My crossing was smooth as and altogether a very enjoyable trip.

Before you know it, you’ll again enter the protected waters of the sounds of the South Island. The Marlborough Sounds and the Queen Charlotte Sounds are a beautiful area of rolling hills, thick bush, sandy beaches, and mussel farms. There were a number of viewing spots on the Aratere – whether you wanted to be outside in the cool breezes at the bow of the boat or inside in the comfort of one of the lounges.

I chose to get some work done during most of the journey and instead camped out in one of the onboard work areas – complete with power points for your charging needs. I would have loved free WiFi, but unfortunately that’s essentially unheard of in New Zealand.

Realistically, as a budget traveler, you want the cheapest way to get between the islands. The scenery certainly doesn’t change with one operator or the other. If you were planning a trip to New Zealand now (May 22nd), and wanted to cross from Wellington to Picton on the 30th of June, a trip with Bluebridge would cost a solo traveler with no vehicle $50. A trip with Interislander? $48. If you were a last minute planner, and only decided today you wanted to cross the ferry tomorrow, a trip from Wellington to Picton on Interislander would cost you $53, while the fare on Bluebridge would remain at $50.

The Destination (or origin): Beautiful Picton

At $3 more a trip, I’d still recommend crossing with Interislander. Their ships are in excellent condition, they offer a comfortable ride, and their customer service is superb.

If you’re interested in crossing the Cook Strait with Interislander, check out here website and online booking service here.

Disclaimer: Interislander offered a complimentary crossing for Max (my late campervan) and myself in return for a review on Backpackingmatt.

backpackingmatt May 17, 2010

New Zealand’s North: Cape Reinga and 90 Mile Beach

New Zealand, Travel Photos 17 Replies

I’m not typically a fan of bus tours. To be fair, I haven’t been on many – but, when given the opportunity, I’ll always choose solo travel over guided bus tours. I can’t personally think of anything worse than being stuck on a coach full of young backpackers who are just looking for an excuse to party. Nonetheless, as Steph over at 20 Something Travel has eloquently said, we’re all travelers at the end of the day.

There are times when a bus tour is the right option. I recently spent some time in the Northland of New Zealand. It’s a beautiful place with ancient Kauri trees, dolphins, overnight backpacker cruises, and beaches. One particular beach which begs to be visited during your time in New Zealand is the 90 Mile Beach.

As you might expect, the 90 Mile Beach stretches for some 60 miles and is a major draw for backpackers in New Zealand. It’s a long stretch of packed white sand where travelers and locals alike often take their vehicles. If you really want to expereince 90 Mile Beach, you need to be in a vehicle cruising at sixty miles an hour with sand dunes on one side of your vehicle and the Tasman Sea on the other. It’s a bizarre experience, and if you don’t want to run the risk of getting stuck, blowing a tire, or worse – then I recommend you sign up for a bus tour.

Most of the tours which take you on 90 Mile Beach also take you to New Zealand’s northern tip of Cape Reinga. These tours either leave Paihia or Kaitaia and while Paihia is drastically nicer than Kaitaia, you’re much closer to 90 Mile beach in Kaitaia and it’s the logical place to start your bus tour. You have a number of different companies to choose from, but I found Harrisons Cape Runner to be the most budget friendly option.

The tour leaves from Kataia and heads north to Cape Reinga with a number of stops along the way. We went to a Kauri Museum where there is the opportunity to view ancient Kauri trees which have been excavated from local swamps – these Kauri trees are thousands of years old and were nearly as big as the massive coach the tour went on. There were a couple more stops on the way north. I found most of them to be pointless, however I guess they’re essentially mandatory toilet stops for any customers that can’t – hold it – for over an hour. We stopped at a couple beaches and the most northern general store in New Zealand where we were encouraged to try, “New Zealand’s best ice cream.”

Herein lies one of my biggest complaints with any sort of organized bus tour. You loose the freedom and flexibility you would have if you were traveling solo. Don’t get me wrong, I like ice cream, but I was far more keen to get north to Cape Reinga.

Cape Reinga

Cape Reinga is known for being the most northern point in New Zealand (in fact, a point east of the Cape is the northernmost point) and is found about 100 kms north of Kaitaia.

It really is a stunning place and is especially important in Maori spiritual culture. The word Reinga in Maori means “Underworld.” Maoris believe that after you die, your spirit makes its way north over New Zealand and along the 90 Mile beach before entering the underworld after leaping off the Cape. Another Maori name for the area is, Te Rerenga Wairua which translates to the, ‘leaping-off place of spirits.’

The spiritual importance of Cape Reinga aside, it’s a magical place and is especially stunning on a clear day. The Tasman Sea on New Zealand’s west meets with the South Pacific on New Zealand’s east just north of the Cape. From the Cape you can see an area of especially rough and choppy water where the two seas meet.

It’s a dramatic site with the power of the two seas clashing just below the lighthouse viewing platform.

Sand Dunes

After spending time at the Cape, we boarded the bus and made our way south towards the 90 Mile Beach. Just before arriving at 90 Mile Beach, we stopped to see the massive sand dunes which are found just inland from the beach. These towering hills of sand are quite impressive to see. Harrisons provided our tour group with plastic sand sleds. After climbing to the top of the sand, you can ride the toboggan of sorts down. They went surprisingly fast and seemed quite dangerous. Only in New Zealand could you do this without signing a waiver that said you wouldn’t sue the company if you broke your arm.

90 Mile Beach

90 Mile Beach itself only stretches for about 60 miles. When missionaries had to travel the beach via horseback, they assumed their horses could travel 30 miles each day. It would take them three days to travel the beach, so they ultimately named it the 90 Mile Beach. Their math was flawed as they didn’t take into consideration the fact the horses traveled slower in the sand.

With white sand, beautiful blue water, and the surf stretching as far as you can literally see, it’s an absolutely stunning sight. Many a tourist has unsuccessfully attempted to travel 90 Mile Beach in their own vehicle – only to find themselves stuck. The bus drivers know the tide times, areas to avoid, the best access and exit points, and how to navigate the small streams which run onto the beach. Considering this, most of the time, they do it successfully.

I really enjoyed my experience with Harrisons. We had an excellent Maori guide who provided heaps of information throughout the entire trip. While there weren’t many backpackers on our tour, there probably should have been more. It’s your most budget friendly option at only $45. This rate is for their full day tour which leaves at 9, returns at 5, and includes lunch – one of the few bargains in New Zealand.

backpackingmatt May 13, 2010

Cruising the Bay of Islands on The Rock

New Zealand 13 Replies

Update as at 11 August 2014 — Surprisingly, this experience has become more budget friendly – it’s now only $168 for the cruise including shared accommodation. Awesome! Add this to a Planit NZ Travel Package and I can save you money on your trip to New Zealand.

If you’re on a backpacking trip to New Zealand, you can’t miss out on the Bay of Islands – an inlet off the South Pacific north of Auckland dotted with over one hundred tropical islands. On a sunny day, the blue-green, emerald waters contrasted with the white sand beaches will almost take your breath away. There are plenty of activities for the backpacker in the Bay – from snorkeling, to kayaking, to swimming, to fishing – or, you can just relax and soak up the sun.

Your trip to the Bay of Islands won’t be complete unless you spend some time on the water. Many backpackers choose to experience the Bay of Islands by going on a dolphin watching tour. However, if you want an all-in-one cruise that will allow you to experience all the Bay has to offer, you’ve got to check out Rock the Boat.

The Rock is a purpose-designed, floating lodge, which originally functioned as a car ferry in the Northland. Today, it’s a floating backpackers’ dream. The Rock has a bar, a fireplace, a pool table, a piano, a BBQ, and plenty of space to sit back and take in the scenery of the Bay. On the second level you have accommodation options for up to 36 guests. Each room offers a view of the sea and the six bed dorms open to a seaside balcony.

The 22 hour overnight cruise with Rock the Boat allows you to take in many of the activities you’d want to do in the Bay of Islands – all for one price. Don’t expect to get bored, as you can stay busy throughout the entire trip.

Here’s what to expect:

As you’re leaving port in Paihia, the crew will set up some lines in the water to troll behind The Rock. We were able to catch some sea trout on the second day of my cruise. The staff cleaned the fish and served it as sushi with soy sauce and wasabi. It was absolutely gorgeous.
As you’re cruising to the outer islands, the crew arranges a shooting competition for everyone on the boat. Shooting? Outside of Texas? You bet. A decoy duck is towed behind The Rock and you have the opportunity to take some shots at it with a BB gun.

Once you set anchor for the evening, you’re given the opportunity to fish for some Red Snapper. If you’re lucky enough to land one, you can grill it on the barbecue and have it for your tea.
The Kiwis love to BBQ, and you’ll get an excellent one for your dinner on the cruise. Ribeye steaks cooked to order along with sausages, potatoes, and a selection of pastas and salads.
You have the opportunity to night kayak after you’ve set anchor for the evening. A guided trip will allow you to see the stars above and below. In addition to a sky illuminated with stars, you’ll see phosphorescence in the dark water. Tiny, microscopic organisms in the water store up radiation and when they are disturbed, they let off the energy as phosphorescent light. It’s magical to see – and as you might expect, a picture wouldn’t do the expereince justice.

On your second day after waking to see the sunrise, you’re served a proper Kiwi breakfast of weetbix, porridge, and muesli.
You’ll set off to find a deserted, tropical island where you’ll be led on a guided hike that affords you some stunning views of the Bay of Islands.

After your hike, you have the opportunity to snorkel in the clear blue water, kayak, or you can simply chill out and soak up the sun.

The crew on The Rock goes out of their way to ensure you have a memorable time on their cruise. Each and every staff member on my cruise was passionate about the Bay of Islands, the cruise they were taking me on, and you could tell they really believed in the product they were a part of. It was refreshing to see, and they absolutely made the trip a positive one. Everyone went out of their way to remember your name, find out your story, and make sure you were having a blast on the cruise. Jonny, the skipper, was happy to answer any questions you might have on The Rock or the Bay of Islands.

We didn’t see any wildlife, but you stand a decent chance of seeing some of the Bay’s Bottlenose dolphins during your cruise. The Rock isn’t set up to go looking for them, but often some dolphins that the crew knows my name will come to find The Rock.

There is a fully stocked bar on board. It’s the center piece of the boat, and is a great place to relax and chat with the crew or other backpackers on the cruise. You’d expect drinks to be overpriced, but beers and mixed drinks were on par with what you’d pay back on shore in Paihia. If alcohol isn’t your cup of tea, there is free tea and coffee throughout the cruise.

It’s very often tough to find a good deal as a budget traveler in New Zealand. New Zealand is a beautiful country with so much to offer – but unfortunately, that often comes at a price – not with The Rock. A cruise on The Rock is a bargain considering everything the trip includes. For $178, you get shared accommodation, dinner, breakfast, kayaking, snorkeling, fishing, and the opportunity to cruise around the beautiful Bay of Islands.

It’s an excellent trip, and really is a backpackers dream opportunity to get out and experience the Bay of Islands.

If you’re considering a cruise with Rock the Boat (and you should), check out their website for more information. Don’t hesitate to get in contact with your hosts, Sarah and Jonny, should you have any questions. They’ll be happy to help. The $178 includes dinner, shared accommodation, breakfast, and all of your activities.

Disclaimer: Rock the Boat provided me with a complimentary cruise in return for a review on Backpackingmatt.

backpackingmatt April 3, 2010

Franz Josef New Zealand Travel Video

New Zealand, Travel Videos 21 Replies

Below you’ll find the newest edition to Backpackingmatt – Travel Videos. I’m excited at the opportunity to share my tips and experiences in video format. This will hopefully allow you to better get a feel for the destinations I travel to.

I look forward to any feedback about my first video – be it positive or negative. Please feel free to share them in the comments section below.

The first (of hopefully many) travel video takes you to the rugged, West Coast of New Zealand’s South Island. I hope you enjoy Episode 1 of my Budget Travel Videos in Franz Josef, New Zealand.

Additional Franz Josef Tips

For any glacier viewing you plan to do, start early. Clouds often come in during the early afternoon.
Everything is extremely expensive in Franz Josef – plan accordingly. Stock up on food, drink, and petrol before you arrive.
In the high summer season, book your accommodation well in advance as the village will fill up.
Your cheapest option for food in Franz Josef is the fish and chips shop on the street parallel to the main road (there are only two streets, I trust you’ll find it!). It’s a fish and chips shop, internet cafe, and laundromat combo.
The glacier is found about 5kms outside of the village. If you don’t have your own transportation, you should have good luck hitching to the glacier carpark. Otherwise, you can catch a shuttle for about $10 return.
For good nightlife, check out the Monsoon Bar – their motto is, When it Rains, We Pour. And it rains a lot in Franz Josef. It’s a busy place especially when the Kiwi Experience bus shows up. On Wednesday nights, head up to the Blue Ice Bar for the best (and only) karaoke in Franz.
If you want to attempt to get away from the tourist crowd, consider checking out the Haast Public Bar. It’s about 1km north of the village center and offers the only reasonably priced pint in Franz Josef. With a pool table, a juke box, and a tough, West Coast barmaid, you can have a good night out. Ask about their Riggers and you can take away two liters of beer for about $12.
For more about the Franz Josef Glacier Guides hike, check out this post.
For pictures from a helicopter ride over the glaciers, check out this photo essay.

backpackingmatt March 15, 2010

Monday Escape: Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand

New Zealand, Travel Photos 1 Reply

Franz Josef Glacier is 12 kilometers long and found on New Zealand’s West Coast (South Island). It’s the world’s fastest moving glacier – moving at speeds of up to one meter per day. Big Franz Glacier is located only 300 meters above sea level and is surrounded near its base by temperate rainforest.

It’s a fascinating sight, as this photo hopefully shows.

Franz Josef Glacier New Zealand West Coast — Franz Josef Glacier

You have a number of different options if you want to see the glacier.

You can go on a guided glacier tour with Franz Josef Glacier Guides. Read my review of the experience here.
Also, a number of different companies in Franz offer helicopter tours. Check out this post for some great pictures from one of the flights.

I took the photo featured here from the summit of Alex Knob. This 4,249 foot peak can be reached in about four hours. The trail head leaves from just outside of the village.

It’s a challenging walk, but you’re afforded superb views of the glacier, the surrounding mountains, and the Tasman Sea – so long as you go on a clear day. The earlier you start, the better your chances of reaching the summit before the afternoon clouds roll in.

Do you have a photo and a brief write-up you’d like featured on Backpackingmatt’s Monday Escape? Email me at matt (at) backpackingmatt (dot) com. I’ll gladly post your photo with a link back to your blog. Cheers!

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