I’ve heard nothing can prepare a traveler for their first days in Southeast Asia. I’d agree. It’s a place different than anywhere else in the world. My first taste of Southeast Asia came with a quick, 24-hour layover in Kuala Lumpur.
Kuala Lumpur is a city of stark contrasts; nestled up against the Petronas Towers – the tallest skyscrapers in Southeast Asia – you have historic mosques and temples, world class shopping malls and potholed filled streets lined with open-aired food markets offering food from all over the continent, stalls with Malays from the surrounding countryside selling their wares, and WiFi enabled coffee shops (free WiFi, come on New Zealand).
Exiting my Air Asia flight at the Kuala Lumpur International Airport, I quickly realized how close Malaysia is to the equator. Stepping out of the plane brought on an intense wave of stifling heat and humidity; an overwhelming heat I have not felt in almost 18 months. As planes full of travelers from all over Asia were packed into the customs arrival hall, the smells of travelers who had been on long-haul flights permeated the air. We queued up in lines where there weren’t enough passport control agents and waited to be stamped into Malaysia.
Leaving the airport I was immediately greeted with dozens of hawkers selling various bus services to downtown Kuala Lumpur. With my train ticket in hand, I made my way through the humidity to the shuttle bus which would take me to the high-speed train to Kuala Lumpur. After arriving to the KL Sentral Station to hordes of people, light rail trains, shops, and taxi stands with signs in a language I knew nothing about, it hit me how this was the first time in ages I’ve been distinctly out of my comfort zone; strangely, it was a refreshing and exciting feeling.
I love the challenge of arriving to a city where you know very little about the culture, nothing about the language and being forced to make your own way. This aspect of travel that some people dislike the most is something I yearn for.
I hailed a taxi that would hopefully take me to my hostel. As we traveled through the streets of Kuala Lumpur, I began to realize the contrasts I referenced earlier. The pot-hole filled streets we traveled down were filled with scooters of all sorts and sizes that zoomed between old cars and even older buses. If you didn’t turn around to see the towering Petronas Towers, you’d never know you were in a city with one of the continents leading economies.
“That is your street there,” the taxi driver told me. He then circled the block just enough to turn my directions around before dropping me off on the busy street corner. “Welcome to Malaysia,” he said as I exited his taxi.
I was immediately overcome with the intense smells, sounds and sights of Kuala Lumpur. Locals sat outside food halls having their dinner. Garbage sat on street corners waiting to be collected. Incenses from shops, cigarette smoke from men on street corners, petrol and exhaust from passing buses and scooters and the constant beeping of horns all mixed together to make a strong humidity-filled Southeast Asian cocktail.
As I attempted to get my bearings and make my way to the hostel, I manged to slip on the wet sidewalk and stubbed my toe on the concrete. My trusty Kiwi-jandals from 11 months ago had failed me and began to puddle with blood; the absolute last thing you need on a busy street corner as night falls. Realizing I was lost, and now with an injured and bleeding foot, I happened to walk past a travelers guest house.
I walked in and asked the man at the counter where the BackHome Hostel was. He quickly explained through broken English, some scribbles on a piece of paper, and a series of hand gestures where to go. As I looked at him blankly, he smiled, grabbed me by the arm and pulled me out the front door. Ten minutes, two alleyways, four turns and three to-close-for-comfort calls with passing buses later, he dropped me at a street corner and explained it was just down the block to the left.
As he left and I stood there smiling, thinking about the goodwill you see in people while traveling, another old man approached me and asked if I was looking for Chinatown (a popular nearby neighborhood). “No,” I explained, “I’m going to the BackHome Hostel, it’s just – ” and he cut me off.
“Oh yes,” he exclaimed, “a very nice hostel, come with me.” As he took me down the street by the shoulder he asked, “Where are you from?”
“America,” I told him.
“Oh, America!” he said with excitement. “My daughter’s English teacher is from San Diago. Welcome to Malaysia – you must be here on holiday.” As he brought me through traffic and the remaining 5 minutes to my hostel, he explained how he was visiting Kuala Lumpur working in the market selling miniature Buddhas. “Take one,” he said as he pulled it out of his bag. “Only 20 ringitt and it will bring you good luck.”
After all the hospitality I had experienced in the last half hour, I could hardly say no. “Enjoy your journey,” the man said as he left me at the door to my hostel.
While I typically don’t write posts in a first-person, narrative format, I felt this was the best way to share my initial experience in SE Asia.
Have you traveled SE Asia? What first experience stands out in your mind? Please leave your experiences and advice below.
Backpacking Matt 
Spot on, definitely the first thing you notice about Asia, anywhere in Asia, is the smells! Not always good, but not always bad either!
@Connie The bad smells are extremely overpowering … can’t say I’m used to them yet.
Vivid memories of my first time in Kuala Lumpur, a mixture of excitement and trepidation. Can’t wait to get back there and explore the city properly. Hope you enjoy being back in se Asia Matt!
Oh I also remember the first time I arrived in KL – crazy traffic, afternoon thunderstorms and busy busy but great city! also heaps of shopping malls :p
Kl was my first overseas destination. Its not my favourite city in SEA but its certainly worth a visit (I’ve since been back twice). The people, as you discovered, are really friendly and always willing to lend a helping hand
I love Asia – certain parts a lot – Japan, 4 times, and travels to Hong Kong, Singapore and Bali – very recently. Japan is out of this world and Singapore was just a very busy, humid bustling city but very clean and well-organized, Bali (Indonesia) was simply paradise…..Enjoy your time!
Hi.. Nice experience from south east asia but have u been to go to Indonesia?
U can find many kind of culture only in one country..
Oh, wow! That is quite a welcome. Most of us choose Thailand for our first SE Asia moments. ๐ I had a blast in KL, but like most big cities it is nothing like the rest of the country. I hope you make it to KK and the rest of Borneo! I am so in love with that part of the world and look forward to reading more about your adventure there! PS. First-person suits you.
@Abby I unfortunately am not sure I’ll spend much more time in Malaysia. I’m only in SE Asia for another month this time and I’d prefer to get a real taste of one country before moving on. Thanks for the compliment on the first person choice!
@Kim Thanks Kim. Hopefully you enjoy Cairo.
Great post! We arrived in Cairo last night and had a similar impression. Not the people though…friendly, but not sincere. Enjoy your time there! We’ll be in SEA in a couple of months. Can’t wait!
looks like your having a great time, I always wonder if I’m gonna mistake hospitality for someone trying to make a fast buck or rob me…hmm Looks like your experiences thus far have been positive.
@Michael It’s often hard to tell – and I’m not sure there is a sure fire answer. I find often it’s simply a mater of going with your gut impression. My gut said this guy was sincere … and I think he was.
This brought back a lot of memories as well as wishes for the future. I can distinctly remember stepping into Bangkok the first time. Like nothing I’d seen before, no language skills, couldn’t read anything, the stifling heat, new smells, and most of all the warmth of the people which was immediately evident. I can’t wait to go back!
@Brooks Glad you’ve had a similar impression. I’ve since seen a side of this city that will haunt me for some time – something I’ll try and write about in the coming days. As a whole, the Thais are unbelievably friendly and I’m madly in love with the city.
I feel like I was there with you! First-person writing has its uses, and this was a good one.
I’m glad to hear your intro to Southeast Asia went well (with the exception of the bleeding foot, of course…)!
Can’t wait to read more.
@Amanda Thanks for the compliment .. I’m really glad you enjoyed it. Yes, less the wounded toe everything has been wonderful!
This brought back a lot of memories of my first experience in Indonesia. Definitely sensory overload. I distinctly remember stepping off the plane and having the heat and humidity hit me like a wave. It was like stepping into an oven. But like you I met a lot of cool people who were so friendly and helpful. Can’t wait to return.
@Matt The heat was the absolute first thing I noticed stepping off the plane. It was shocking. I was so overwhelmed with the heat I was laughing and telling the people around me how hot it was. As they were all from SE Asia they couldn’t probably grasp why I was so shocked!
Looks like you jumped head in, into SEA! Oh how I can’t wait to go there. I’ll be there soon. So did you spend an entire year in New Zealand before moving onto SEA?
@Jaime I was in New Zealand for just under a year on a working holiday visa – fantastic place. Can’t wait to go back.
Just got back from three weeks in Cambodia. There are so many great memories (NOT ignoring the bad things like the decimation of the population by the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot)
– the fantastic smells
– excellent food
– wonderful people
– incredible sights
– very inexpensive …… everything
Great post, enjoyed it, thanks – Frank
p.s. search for “adventure Travel” on our blog and check out a couple of our posts about the trip if you are interested…
@Frank I’m glad you enjoyed Cambodia – unfortunately I won’t probably make it there on this trip to SE Asia. Your list of advantages echoes what I’d say for Thailand as well.
Great job with the narrative, first-person approach. Really set the scene and made it colorful. How’s that toe healing?
@Lauren Thanks for the reply – it means a lot coming from such a good writer like yourself. As for the toe, it seems to be healing okay. Miraculously it’s not infected yet even though I’ve been wandering the streets of BKK in my jandals for the past week.
I do like the first-person narrative — you should do it on occasion! It’s nice.
Related to much of this with my arrival in BKK — the heat, the exhaust, the carts, the chaos. This is a part of the world that everyone should visit.
@Kate I agree – and a part of the world you can’t actually understand until you’re actually here.
Aren’t the people in SE Asia so nice? I love that they go out of their way to help people . . . like the guys who brought you to your hostel (even if he did ask for a little something).
@Akila So far their hospitality has probably only been topped by the Turkish!
@Ahimas As I was in KL for such a short period of time, I never actually had a chance to see the ‘Westernized” areas of the city.
@Dustin I’ve not seen a temple yet, but I’ve eating lots of amazing food (see my Twitter stream!).
It’s funny that KL can seem so exotic, since it’s one of the more “Western” cities in Asia. I suspect that after another month or two of traveling through SE Asia, coming back to to KL would be like returning to the states than traveling to a new country.
SE Asia = Food
How I love the SE Asia Cocktail, China gave us a warm up but the amount of scooters when we hit Vietnam was crazy. Love it so much though.
@Poi I was talking with an English teacher from Vietnam yesterday and explaining how I couldn’t believe all the scooters in BKK – he said it’s nothing compared to Hanoi where he teaches. Thanks for the comment!
aww nice to see you found my hometown so exciting! stumbled upon your blog while mindlessly blog-surfing for nz travel experiences – am currently studying in auckland and am planning a summer trip.
funny how people find the smells of asia disorienting – this probably explains why i didn’t feel like rotorua smelled dodgy at all, it was nothing compared to what i had back home, i suppose *shrug*
hope you have a chance to stuff yourself silly before you left, at any rate – if there’s one thing i miss about malaysia, it’s the food. and for dirt cheap, too.
a waste you don’t have more time to linger – i’d think SEA could easily take up half a year because of the sheer diversity in cultures and exoticisms, esp for a westerner, to whom it would all seem so much more bizarre. but i’m sure you’d enjoy yourself all the same!
@meei Thanks for the comment – interesting how you weren’t taken back by the smells of Rotorua! And yes, I loved the food! Feel free to hit me up at matt (AT) backpackingmatt (dot) com with any South Island NZ questions. Very happy to help.
It’s San Diego ๐
But SEA rocks. It’s good to see you are enjoying it and especially enjoying BKK!
@Matt I know I’ve made a mistake when Nomadic Matt is correcting the spelling in a post! Hope you’re enjoying Oz and thanks for the comment!
@Debbie Thanks, I’m loving it here!
Hi Matt, Great introduction to SEA! I’m happy to hear that people are so kind in KL. You must give a good American impression. Sounds like an interesting place – sights, smells, sounds. DHM
Nice to see you’ve made it to Southeast Asia, Matt. We’ve been in Bangkok now for a little under a week and it’s freakin’ awesome! There’s so much to do here we’re actually a little overwhelmed by the choices.
I found the humidity in KL to be stifling! But I also have been very impressed with how hospitable people are in SE Asia. Glad you found your hostel- enjoy your new Buddha ๐
It’s the energy of S-E Asia that really grabs me about it. That weird combination of aggressive hawkers, hectic traffic, busy streetlife and the much more Zen side of Buddhism, Hinduism, laid-back tropical islands. People either doing a huge amount, or doing very little at all. Do make sure you get to Indonesia. It’s amazing in its diversity.
@Theodora I’m in Bali now and have enjoyed it for the most part. Clearly a beautiful island, yet very overdeveloped with heaps of lovers and honeymooners (slightly annoying for a single solo-traveler!). The people have been lovely (less the hawkers) and I imagine the rest of Indonesia would be amazing to travel around.
Great article about KL. I’ve never heard that many good reviews about the Malaysian capital. I live there and I do think its truly unique. Yes, the contrast is quite amazing from pot-holed roads to F1 track in Sepang, from sidewalk hawker stalls to world class shopping malls. The best thing is they all sit side by side. It is surprisingly multi-cultural aswell. KL is a big jumble. Its not perfect but because of that I feel I could easily relate myself to that. I believe its true to itself and of course the people and the street food is amazing! Enjoy reading your articles by the way
@Amer The contrast is certainly what makes KL unique. Thanks for the comment and I’m glad you’re enjoying Backpackingmatt.com. I’ll certainly check out Tamn Negara the next time I’m in Malaysia. Would love to properly see the country over a couple months.
Oh sorry I’ve forgotten to add this. I think next time you visit Malaysia, try and visit Taman Negara National Park to experience the world’s oldest tropical rainforest or Penang to sample arguably Asia’s best street food. If you have time definitely go to Borneo!
Matt, this is a great post, I feel connected in many ways.
I’m an Asian myself (Indonesian to be exact), and even I feel overwhelmed (in a good way) about the diversity of SEA. Even within a country itself you can experience so many different weird and awesome things. KL is actually one of the most organized and modern ones, although not as so as Singapore. I’ve been to some of the countries, and looking forward to go to some more.
While you’re in Indonesia, make sure you go to other places, not only in Bali. Indonesia is so much more than what Bali can offer (though I also like Bali). My friends and I have been maintaining a website to sorta guide foreigners when traveling in Indonesia, you know, give them some ideas from the locals’ point of view.
Anyway, enjoy your travels!
@Vira Thanks for the comment – I unfortunately only made it to Bali but would see more the next time. I”ll check out your website – it’s a shame I didn’t know about it before I was in Bali! Safe travels!
I remember the first frenzied 48 hours in Bangkok all to well. The flooded city, the oppressive heat the cacophony and the smells. I am sure you will have the time of your life!
@Josh – I’ve unfortunately already left – but yes, had an absolute blast!
sounds incredible. it reminds me of the first time i stepped off the plane in mumbai, india, also to be met by the blast of humidity. another place to go to!
@Mike It was an absolute rush – great to document the first impressions after arriving to a new destination. All of your senses are especially heightened – I’m sure you felt the same thing in Mumbai.
Be friendly and courteous. That’s what we expect from foreign tourists. ๐ I’ve traveled to Hong Kong and Macau. Hong Kong is tourist friendly when it comes to public transportation. It’s not hard to get around the city with just a map. Same also in Macau. Some locals are friendly and there are some who are rude. It’s hard to communicate with them because of little English they know, but sign language do wonders sometimes. ๐
My first taste of Asia was in Indonesia, with mad mad traffic in Jakarta which seems to have no lanes and no rules. We learnt fast that BIG had right of way,(trucks,buses, had right of way. Once out of the city the countryside is beautiful with rice crops golden in the sun,magnificent temples like Borobudur, hair raising motor bike rides up and down the mountains. An amazing country to travel through!
I’m going to Malaysia in just a few weeks!!! I am so excited, but I have been to SE Asia before so the culture shock will probably not be so bad. I’m especially excited to go because I am actually half Malaysian, but I have never been to my father’s country. ๐ Your post has definitely upped my excitement level
@Jade Hopefully you’ve enjoyed your trip!
Love Southeast Asia! Did scooter around the entire place without injury which was a feat in itself. Best experience was probably coasting thru the mountains along the Ho Chi Minh Trail in Vietnam. Need to scribble that down soon for the public record =)
Hey, thanks for using my photo of the Petronas towers. Perhaps not as eloquently as yourself, I also blog my journey at http://www.noplanes.com
KL is a great city for a 24 hour stop-over!
Hi Matt, I enjoyed reading your impression on Malaysia. I am from Malaysia, I also sometimes cannot stand the humidity and crowd traffic here. But in other city in Malaysia it is not that crowded. I am planning to go backpacking at some Europe country but that sure will take lots of money as their currency is higher than us.