Bali – one of the many islands in the Indonesian Archipelago – is a shockingly beautiful and diverse place. This is no secret as many parts of the island are overrun with five star hotels and resorts. Lovers and honeymooners alike flock here in droves to relax on the beach, soak up the sun, and treat themselves to luxury spas, Balinese hospitality, and excellent food.
Bali is clearly more than honeymooners, spas, and tourist resorts – it’s an intensely spiritual island with temples, devout Hindus, and a spectacular array of landscapes. Add to this world class surfing and diving, beautiful beaches, and excellent museums and galleries and Bali is a pretty amazing place to travel.
Yet is Bali ideal for the backpacker, budget traveler, or solo-traveler?
I’m not sure. I’ll have a better feeling by the time I leave next week. I am sure of one thing:
Bali is best seen and experienced from behind the handlebars of your very own scooter or motorbike.
The first thing you’ll notice after leaving Bali’s airport is the shocking number of scooters on Bali’s roads. They weave in out and of traffic, buzz by you as you’re stuck in traffic jams, and somehow make order out of the chaos of Bali’s traffic patterns. From children in school uniforms heading to class, to entire families of four or five, to ladies in miniskirts and high heels, everyone it seems in Bali has a scooter – and so should you.
Hiring a scooter in Bali will allow you to get out of the tourist centers, it will reduce your reliability on relatively expensive or unreliable public transport, and if everything goes in your favor it will save you money.
Here is what you should know if you’re thinking about traveling Bali on a scooter:
- Scooter rentals can be found almost everywhere. Even in the smallest villages I’ve had hawkers offer me ‘motorbike? – motorbike?’ Outside of the bigger towns of Kuta or Ubud, chances are it will be a local just trying to make a couple thousand Rupiah off their own bike.
- How much? This depends mostly on where you’re hiring the scooter. In Kuta where there is heaps of competition, you can expect to pay about 50,000 Rupiah / day ($5.60USD). If you commit to a couple days, make sure you talk the price down. You can get a manual transmission with four gears for slightly cheaper.
- Shop around. All you have to do is walk down the street or alleyway in Kuta and you’ll be offered scooter rentals. They are literally everywhere. Spend an hour walking around seeing what your options are – compare prices and quality of the scooters as they both vary greatly.
- Be careful. Before taking off on my scooter yesterday, I made sure my travel medical insurance was up to date. Even in areas where there is little traffic, the traffic you do encounter seems chaotic through Western eyes. Somehow it all works, and before long you’ll be feeling pretty comfortable.
- Stay on the left. They drive on the left side of the road in Bali – but also make sure you stay to the left hand side of the lane. Unless of course you’re buzzing through a congested traffic jam.
- In order to legally drive a scooter in Bali you’re required to have an international drivers license. They didn’t tell me this when I hired my scooter which caused a minor problem but made for one hell of a story.
Shortly after leaving Kuta, I was over the moon and taking in the rush of cruising along the beach. The combination of the hot wind in my hair, exhaust from traffic in my face, and stunning views of the beach and surrounding mountains was making for an absolutely epic experience.
Everything changed as I came upon a police check point. Ten or so uniformed police officers were randomly stopping traffic as they passed checking for registrations and licenses. I assumed I would be fine as the rental agency didn’t mention anything about my Iowa license.
“Problem,” the officer said as he looked at my license. He pointed at a piece of paper and said, “For you, 1,000,000 Rupiah ($100 USD) fine or we take your license.” I then made the mistake of opening my wallet to show him my rental agreement. “Ah, unless you pay now,” he said, “Problem okay.”
Knowing now what was coming, I began pulling notes out of my wallet. He kept shaking his head until every last note was gone. Luckily this was only about 300,000 Rupiah ($30 USD). “Okay,” he said. “You go. Problem fixed.”
If you’re traveling Bali in a scooter and don’t have an international license, make sure you keep your notes in separate places. From what I’ve picked up now talking with other locals, typically a foreigner can get away with a 50,000 Rupiah pay off – have a couple 50,000 notes handy and when pulled over play up that you speak little English; act confused, hand them money, and you should get sent on your way.
The whole experience rubbed me the wrong way; especially after finding out I should have been able to get away for significantly less. Nonetheless, I should have done a bit more research and planned accordingly.
Cruising around Bali yesterday on my well-used Honda was exhilarating, it was terrifying, it was freeing – and it’s something you must experience while you’re here.
Great post, Matt. I can’t believe the cop story! If you’ve paid off a cop, your Southeast Asia trip has officially begun, huh? ๐ Good to know about the cash.
I did the same yesterday and today (rented a scooter, not paid off a cop) in Pai, Thailand. It was a bit cheaper — 100 baht for 30 hours. And though it was my first time on a scooter and I therefore made a complete fool of myself all day, IT WAS AMAZING. There’s nothing like riding through heartbreakingly gorgeous jungles and mountains, sun beating down on you, the occasional bug hitting you in the face…
How did you handle city traffic? And did you go by scooter all the way from Kuta to Ubud?
@Kate Thanks! Yes, welcome to SE Asia I suppose. Pai sounds amazing, quite sad I’ll have missed it this time around. All the more reason to come back! City traffic was interesting. I was chatting with someone last night who had hired a scooter and we determined that somehow order forms from the chaos .. there is just a general understanding between scooter riders that makes it all work. It was a long ride from Kuta to Ubud, and then Ubud to Lovina but I’m loving it. Video to come!
I’ve been spared this situation while actually on the move, but living in Central America was ripe for this. The fines for the silliest of traffic violations could be outrageously expensive. (I am so not stepping onto the landmine of a reason for that!) I couldn’t afford a car, but I was definitely a passenger several times when we got pulled over. Luckily, the driver always offered cash and avoided the paperwork and heavy fines. In those cases, the cops’ laziness was beneficial, something I couldn’t say when my house was robbed. And I guess they like the cash…
@Abby Yikes – sorry to hear your house was robbed. While it rubbed me the wrong way having to pay off the cops, it sure added to the whole experience. You think we’d have any luck doing that in the US? I bet not!
Just stumbled upon your site, and I love it.
Wasn’t scootering around the island so much fun? My husband was shocked at how easy it was to rent one… no insurance needed, his US driver license was barely even glanced at, a 5 min show and tell (this is the braking thingy… and that’s the thing that makes it go ‘vroom’ ‘vroom’)…
Sorry to hear about the problem with the cops, though ๐
@Jill Welcome! Really glad you’re enjoying Backpackingmatt. I’ve just added you to my reader – hopefully we’ll see you around more often! And yes, shocking the lack of forms or paperwork required to hire the scooter! I’ve been amazed too at how giving and trusting the Balinese are. I’ll check into a guesthouse and go to pay and they’ll look at me confused. They’re perfectly fine just trusting you’re not going to jet off in the middle of the night – something rare elsewhere in the world.
Great Tips!!! I wish I had the guts to drive around on a scooter!!! Major kudos to you for even attempting it, your much braver than me! But i’ll certainly keep this is mind one day when I go to Bali and maybe decide to be less of a wuss!!!
@Sasha Thanks! I was pretty terrified at the thought at first – at least the thought of driving around the busy cities. It was really amazing at how quickly I became accustomed to the chaos – which looks much less chaotic from the scooter!
Lucky that you didn’t have more money in your wallet!
Just put on my calendar, “Go to AAA and get international license.” Thanks for the reminder – glad you are okay!
@Erica While it’s probably worth it, you could argue it’s not even worth the headache. Something tells me that even if a person has a license, they’ll find something to try and ticket you for anyway. At 50,000 or $5 a bribe, you could get pulled over a couple times before paying off the cost of the international license!
Wow, I give you props for being brave enough to rent a scooter. I honestly don’t think I would have the courage to do it–especially after hearing about your police incident. It sounded like it was a fabulous way to see the city and if I ever make it to Bali and rent a scooter, I’d definitely prefer sitting on the back while someone else drives!
@Lauren I think it was more terrifying being on the back – as you have NO control over your fate!
Dude, sorry to hear that you were victim to the long arm of the law. Crooked authorities. Bali does sound fun though, and I’ve been looking at the bikes around SE Asia and seeing the bike rentals and I’m very tempted to rent one for the day. Might have to take the plunge soon.
@Eli I got back to BKK last night and was sitting, stuck in traffic, in a taxi thinking, “If only I had my scooter …” Go for it!
Driving on the left side of the road always has me weaving – I thought that would be the worst of it for you but then read about the cops :/
@Anil The left side of the road was easy as I just came out of a year driving in NZ!
Sounds like you had a fantastic time in Bali Matt. Looking forward to hearing all about Thailand when you get there!
@Andrew – It was a blast – some Thailand posts coming soon!
Matt, I could’ve sworn I stopped by to comment here but evidence shows otherwise! Well, it is wonderful that you are back from Bali – I was there in September….having a fancy vacation, not hard core like you – but I fell in love iwth this magical, spiritual island. We were on the jungle side so we only went to the beach to see Tanoh Lot and it was not as impressive as other local parts to which our kind driver took us! No matter, I loved Bali and I am glad you had a good experience….!! Scooters were everywhere!! ๐
@Farnoosh – Glad you enjoyed Bali too! I found the Balinese to be not only extremely hospitable and friendly, but it was overwhelmingly evident they are a very spiritual culture as well.
I’m currently traveling in Bali and am still working up the courage to rent a motorbike. I am staying in Ubud for the next several weeks, and it is definitely the most convenient way to get around — but I find the chaos that is Balinese traffic rather frightening! Glad to hear you adjusted to it quickly, hopefully I’ll be on a motorbike in no time!
@Brie You’ve got to get a motorbike! It’s a perfect way to get off the beaten track and see parts of Bali you’d otherwise never get to. I was only in Ubud for a night but would have loved to spend more time there. I was in an epic guesthouse nestled amongst ride paddies.
Hey Matt,
Great post, police tried to stop us a couple of times for helmets, most of the time we managed to dodge them without stopping although this can be dangerous. One night the policeman actually ran into the of the road so we had to stop so we didn’t hit him. Funnily we told him we would go and get money from our house and he let us go. Another time we just gave one 100,000 Rupiah. It really helps if you speak a little Indonesian too.
Unfortunately I had an accident and I can’t emphasize enough how important travel insurance is in Bali…I came off my bike on gravel wearing tiny shorts and a sleeveless top, I ended up having to pay a lot in the long run on medical bills and unfortunately I’ve got really bad scars as a result. Do what the Balinese do and cover up!!!!!
The scooters are the best, cheapest and most convenient way to get around the island, but sadly I spent the last 3 months of my year in Bali lying in bed!
@Pommie Travels Sorry to hear about your accident. I had a blast, and recommend it as a way to see Bali, but helmets are a must. Witnessed a bad motorbike crash my last night in BKK – girl on the back wasn’t wearing a helmet.
Hi Matt,
just came across your blog. I have been living in Thailand for the last couple of months and renting motorbikes is very similar here, little to no paperwork or registration. The police situation is also similar, although usually they only stop people who aren’t wearing helmets (only applies to foreigners) and then fine them if they don’t have an international license, though the fine is negotiable. I’m not sure if it’s the same in Bali, but some places here ask to hold your passport while you’re renting the bike and then there are stories of people basically having their passports held for ransom to pay for “repairs”. This obviously doesn’t happen all the time but it’s usually best to rent from a place that doesn’t require it.
I’m heading to Bali on Wednesday and reading your posts have made me even more excited.
Happy Travels.
@Nikki I only hired a motorbike in Lanta and they were even more flexible than they were in Bali! They simply asked for my name and hotel name, and that was it. Great way to explore the island.
Enjoy Bali, and thanks for the comment. Whereabouts in Thailand have you been living?
i’ve never been there in Gegor Beach Bali. It seems beautiful…
Hi Matt!
I live in Bali and I use motorcycle everyday. It really is a fun things to do, especially in Bali. For the police problem, of course you don’t want to pay $100 for fine, i think $10 is more than enough to pay.
Hey Matt,
nice to read your travel experiences..
don’t forget to visit Bali again
Well these “uncouth behaviour” (ie. quick corruption! instant money) are from American movies like Brad Pitt giving out a wad of cash to the bartender, James Bond doing the same to the Russian mob, and more. Nobody would like it per se, but if movies keep doing it, real lifers will assume it is normal in the developed world! Heck DVDs are for sale for $3 USD!
Hi Matt,
It’s good the rental price of a motorbike in Bali hasn’t changed since your post in 2010. However nowadays the bike shops even give you a license when you rent from them so I assume you don’t need to apply for a separate driving license. Not sure how helpful it was, but fortunately I was not stopped by the police at any time.
By the way, one of the photos in your post (credit to Creative Commons: EverJean) was of Hanoi, Vietnam, not Bali.
Good to hear the prices haven’t changed!
When the police stop you, the best thing you can do is be polite and stay calm. Arguing will most likely get you nowhere. A fine normally around 50.000 – 100.000 rupiah (around $5-$10) is the typical amount that will get you out of most common problems. Bargaining the price down is expected
Cool, thanks heaps for the advice!
I just came across this blog entry on the way to something else. I live in Bali and drive a motorcycle every day. Have never been stopped by the police. I’m also completely legal and even took a motorcycle riding class in the U.S.
Most travel insurance will not cover you for an accident on a motorcycle unless you have a motorcycle endorsement on your home country license and a valid International Driving Certificate that mirrors this endorsement.
Currently nine Australian tourists go home in a box every month and many more are medivaced at their own expense. YOLO doesn’t cut it. Cross your Ts and dot your Is.
Great advice.
Can completely relate yo your story. Cops in Bali are tough on tourists, because they know it’s easy money. Having an international licence is pretty much essential, unlike in other parts of Indonesia where you can wing it with national driving licences.
Yes, get an international license!
Hi Matt,
I really want to have such a free and great experience of Bali as you had, but reading all the blogs and comments online has only made me more scared to rent a scooter :-S I need to travel from Sanur to Denpasar every day though, so I guess it is kind of a must..
I’m not certain what else there is for transportation options between Sanur/Denpasar, but worth considering other options if you’re apprehensive!
I got stopped by a cop in Phuket while driving a rented scooter without a helmet. 100 thai bath was enough for him to let me go.
we went a bit hidden, he opened his notebook, I dropped the note and that was it.
greetings!
Classic! Thanks for sharing
As a warning, without an international license you’re driving “illegally”, so your travel insurance won’t cover incidents that happen whilst you’re driving unlicensed. Not a big deal if everything goes well, but can be devastating if something goes wrong.
Hello,
I’m a guide in Bali and i always suggest to my guest to book their motorbike to rent in Bali before their arrivals on bali-big-bike.com
They deliver it to you and you pay only on delivery.
I just all to book the bike they want before arrival too avoid disappointment of price fluctuation and downgrading.
Hi Matt!!! Great blog! I would like to ask you if you think it would be reasonable to do Ubud/munduk by scooter (2 on one!) or for example Singaraja/Batur? Would it take ages? Too big distances for a scooter? We’d like to visit all around the island by our own scooter …..if possible! ๐
Thanks!!
I travel around SE Asia for work and have rented scooters in Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Bali and Sri Lanka. I was stopped twice, once in Cambodia and once in Sri Lanka. In Cambodia I legit didn’t have a license and had to pay a $10 bribe. In Sri Lanka, the “officer” pulled me over but this time I was ready. I had insurance card, registration, IDP and home driver’s license. It was kind of funny because although he was nice about it he looked really disappointed. He was hoping for his bribe but oh no the foreigner has his paperwork. Drat!
Renting a scooter (With proper license) is the best thing you can do. If you can stand the chaotic city traffic, then a scooter is the best way to get around. Highly recommended and so cheap in Asia. I think I pay $5 per day for a bike in Vietnam, Indonesia, Cambodia or Thailand.