When you think of Bali, chances are you envision clear blue skies, white sand beaches, thundering surf and beach-side massages. You might picture thick jungle, vivid green rice paddies, and towering volcanoes. These scenes very much exist in Bali and are the reason I was terribly excited to spend a week in this island paradise.
I expected outstanding seafood, friendly locals, budget friendly accommodation, and a pumping nightlife scene in Kuta.
One thing I didn’t expect was an afternoon spent at a traditional cock fight in the middle of the dense, muggy, and intensely green jungle.
One evening in Lovina, a series of seaside villages in the north of Bali, I met a local who was working at a beach-side bar and restaurant. I was enjoying a few Bintangs (Bali’s beer) along with some Canadian backpackers I had recently met when Putu invited me to a cockfight the next afternoon.
Needless to say, this isn’t an invitation I often get.
Cockfighting plays a very important role in the life of many Balinese men. A cockfight, in the simplest sense, is a fight between two roosters in a caged ring. To many men in Bali, it’s much more than this – it’s an obsession that has been passed down through the generations.
Cockfightinging is illegal in Bali and has been since 1981. The only exception is when a cockfight takes place for religious purposes. Bali is an intensely spiritual island made up of almost all Hindus; in Balinese Hinduism, the spilled blood in a cockfight is believed to expel evil spirits.
Although it is illegal, cockfighting takes place throughout Bali. Men will spend anywhere from six months to two years preparing roosters for a cockfight. They are fed high quality food so they develop muscle – the stronger the rooster, the better its chances of winning the cockfight. Cockfighting is so pervasive in Bali culture that you’ll often see men of all ages sitting around, grooming their roosters, comparing weights and sizes, and showing them off to other men in the community.
It’s a very big part of the local culture – and although inhumane by most standards – I couldn’t bring myself to turn down the invitation.
I met Putu the next day and he took me twenty minutes outside of Lovina to his home. Outside this traditional, one-room house, Putu had bamboo cages of roosters of different ages. Though their was a significant language barrier between us, the pride he had in his roosters was overwhelmingly apparent. He pulled out one of the roosters who he assured me was strong, well-fed, and could win in the cockfight.
75,000 Indonesian Rupiahs later (about $8 USD) and I was the proud owner of a two year old Balinese rooster.
We took our scooters higher up the mountain before turning off the small, single tracked road and onto a muddy dirt trail. We went deeper into the muggy jungle before arriving to the cockpit. There were already dozens of men preparing for the fights; as many of them chain smoked sweet-smelling clove cigarettes, they were preening their roosters and seeking out opponents.
The roosters have a natural aggression towards other males. The first step in the process is seeing which roosters want to fight. After finding a suitable opponent, a third man attaches the taji to each rooster’s leg. The taji is a razor sharp dagger of about four inches – it’s a sacred weapon and the fights are won or lost based on the use of the taji, not necessarily by the pecking that takes place between the roosters.
Before the fight begins, there is a chaotic couple minutes while the men around the cockpit place their bets. They shout out the color of the cock they want to win and were placing bets between 50,000 and 1,000,000 Rupiah. The two birds are released in the center of the ring and jump at each other, peck at each other, before one finally slashes the other rooster with the taji.
It was a quick, somewhat anticlimactic finish to all of the pre-fight negotiations. Those who lost their bets gave their cash to the organizer of the cockfight before another round started.
And what about the loosing cock? The owner of the winning cock gets the body of the looser. Unfortunately, my rooster lost and would have likely then been used to prepare Ayam Pelalah – a spicy, Balinese chicken soup.
After the cockfight I was invited to Pulu’s traditional home. He introduced me to his wife and his young daughter before serving me an outstanding lunch.
Their kitchen was outside in a bamboo enclosed room and their stove was a coal fire. As I’ve found many times in Southeast Asia, it’s amazing how those who seemingly have nothing are so giving. They made sure I had seconds, offered me tea, and gave me a gift of a polished seashell.
It was certainly an interesting afternoon – one I’m very glad I was able to experience.
What is your take? Have you been to a cockfight? Would you go? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the comments section below.
![Creative Commons: [Satbir]](https://www.backpackingmatt.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/Discover.jpg)
Backpacking Matt 
Seeing something new is always a treat, but I don’t think I’d have the heart and guts to witness a cockfight, though it’s a practice in many places throughout Indonesia, and I’ve been living all my life in this country.
Yeah, the generosity of those who don’t have much, isn’t is always a heartwarming thing? ๐
@Vira — It’s been a really humbling experience meeting people with so little that are so positive, happy, and giving; definately one of the highlights of my trip to this area of the world.
I’ve seen a couple of those growing up in Indonesia ๐ I don’t think I’d want to go see another one… just like I don’t think I’d enjoy watching a bullfight: another tradition viewed as inhumane by most standards.
How about you, Matt? After seeing one, would you go again or was one enough?
@Jill Thanks for the comment. As I mentioned in the post, it was an interesting experience to say the least. I have no regrets on going. This being said, one was most certainly enough. I left feeling quite … unsettled. It wasn’t an easy thing to watch, to experience, and to in one way or another – endorse. It’s an experience that I’ll always remember, yet one I don’t have any interest in reliving.
I saw a cock fight in happening in Bali, but only for a brief second as we were driving by. Even though it would be a cultural experience, I wouldn’t go to a cock fight. For the same reasons I wouldn’t go to a bull fight in Spain. I know it goes on, but I’d rather not contribute to it. And I don’t feel sorry for the people who get attacked by the bulls in a bull fight either. :0 You mess with a bull, you get the horns!
@Christy Interesting you were able to see one simply driving down the road. I got the feeling it was an event that was, more or less, under the radar and out of the view of any polisi. And yes — you mess with the bulls, look out!
While it sounds like an interesting cultural experience, I’m not sure if I could watch a cock fight… I’m the type of person who gets upset when I see a dead cat along the side of the road, so I’m not sure if I could handle roosters trying to kill each other. But I did like reading about your experience. It’s not something people write about every day.
@Amanda I feel you. Completely. I’m pretty sure anyone that knows me on a personal basis would echo in saying that I’m a very soft-hearted person. Growing up in Iowa, I would often go hunting and fishing with my father and always had a bit of a knot in my stomach when we’d have have to fillet the fish. So watching two roosters fight to the death wasn’t an easy thing to experience. I’m glad I went, but it isn’t something I need – or want – to experience again.
It’s sad to see but I’m glad I went to see this in Dili recently. It’s a real eye opener to an industry that is a big part of many people’s lives. Good to read another post about it, nice work ๐
@Tony — Thanks for the comment – enjoyed your writeup as well.
I’ve been to a couple of cockfights and they are unpleasant, but I find them absolutely fascinating. On the one hand I see the Balinese perspective and accept that. On the other hand and with my Western goggles on, I’m horrified by it. Not that an animal is dying in a sport so much, but the manner in which the animal is finished off. The deaths I’ve seen have all been slow, horrid, gasping deaths that dragged on forever.
I’ll go to another when I get another chance and learn more about it. It’s all too easy to sit back in front our plasma TVs while eating mcdonalds and wearing our sweatshop clothes and claim it’s inhumane.
@Adam I think one will be enough for me, yet I’m glad I was invited and enjoyed learning more about what is such a big part of their lives.
I have a loose rule when I travel: if I wouldn’t do it in my own country, I won’t do it in theirs. So I wouldn’t go to a cockfight.
Moral preaching aside, I think you covered it really well with this post, Matt; very well delivered. I really enjoy your posts, and now you’re touring Asia, it’s a whole new style and flavour to the NZ lifestyle (which was also very cool).
@Ant Thanks for the compliment — glad you’re enjoying my latest stuff. I think that’s a good rule to live by
– but in some ways it was another step outside of my comfort zone. I certainly wouldn’t go at home, but in a place where it permeates so many levels of the culture, I felt it was something I should experience.
As an aspiring anthropologist, I once had to read an essay about this exact subject by a fairly famous anthropologist named Clifford Geertz. (I’d highly encourage you to read it or check out an excerpt online to see how it compares to your experience.)
Personally, I probably wouldn’t attend because it’s illegal, and I wouldn’t want to get arrested in another country should the police happen to show up (something that happens in Geertz’s essay, and leads to a bit of a bond between himself and the Balinese as he has to run and hide from the police along with them).
At any rate, I always try to look at experiences like this through a culturally relativistic lens. I know some people would compare this to dogfighting in the US, but I don’t see it the same way as the Balinese take much pride in the strength and beauty of their roosters, and take very good care of them in the lead up to the fight. Not to mention, the losing roosters are then used to make a delicious meal afterward and aren’t wasted, unlike the losing dog in a dogfight which is left to die if it isn’t already dead, and then just disposed of in a dumpster or by the side of a road.
@Kayling Thanks for the suggestion- I’ll check out the essay.
I wasn’t terribly concerned about getting thrown in prison – from what I understand, the polisi typically turn their eye on the events. My host asked for 50,000 for an entrance fee to the organizer which he said is used to buy off the cops if they do show up.
And yes, it’s amazing how much pride they have in the roosters – the men spend years taking care of them and training them for the fight.
..pretty much everything that I want to say, Christy said. I went for a wander last year in Spain while my mates went to see a bull fight. They thought I was being “awkward.” Nope. Maybe I’ll stick them in a ring and see if there opinions change ๐
p.s. love the blog
@Anthony — Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Glad you’re enjoying my blog.
@Erica — Cheers for the comment.
@Chris I suppose in some ways the tajis make the fight more inhumane in that you’re tying a weapon to an animal, however it sure makes the fight go quicker which is probably better for the roosters. None of the fights lasted over 2 or 3 minutes.
I think my morbid curiosity would have taken over and I would have gone. Thank you for sharing! <3
While I could never condone this type of thing, me not going wouldn’t stop it from happening anyway. As you’ve said it isn’t something you get to see everyday so I’d have been there for a look.
I’d imagine the fights don’t last all that long with that razor on them going on past experience from the chooks/roosters my grand parents used to have back home.
I’ve seen cockfighting since I was a kid, but never really understand what is the rule. I only remember my uncle give me some money to buy candy when his rooster won.
Wanna see cockfighting again, because I can’t find it in city like Denpasar.
This is on so many levels of awesome… I wish you had video of this!
@WanderingTradr I do have a video! Exploring Bali.
Nope, never. I agree w/ Ant above. I don’t care what country it is and what people say is cultural – it’s all bull. Pitting two animals against one another to fight is cruel, unjust, inhumane and pretty unoriginal if you ask me. Are the men of Bali really so lame that they have chosen this as a way to parade their manhood around? I understand it’s a generational thing but that’s the whole point of the new generation – to grow in ways the previous didn’t/couldn’t and come up with new ideas. I can understand why you went but as someone who had a very loveable pet rooster I can tell you they are not all aggressive and they have personalities just like any other animal. My rooster knew his name, slept on my lap and played w/ my cats and dog. They are not dumb, aggressive creatures. It’s this type of story that makes me feel really bad for human kind. I don’t mean this against you, I mean it towards the people that see this as enjoyment and entertainment. I feel sad their feeble minds can’t come up with anything else.
@Bethany Thanks for the comment. I respect your disagreement, but as I’ve said I don’t regret experiencing a part of Bali’s spiritual history. While I can’t understand the allure to the men, it plays such a big part in their culture and will for generations to come.
I’m an Iowa raised boy and must say I’ve never heard of a rooster sleeping on someones lap! By nature they’re aggressive; certainly tying a blade to their legs and taunting them adds to this aggressiveness before the fight – and again, it’s not something I morally agree with.
…itโs amazing how those who seemingly have nothing are so giving…
– They are truly hospitable. It wonโt even cross their mind to have a second thought in letting you use even their own personal stuffs to make you feel comfortable on their place. I can really relate on how you feel because I also experienced this way of treatment a lot of times.
Cockfighting is rare recently also because of modernization…
We just got invited to attend a cockfight later this afternoon while we are staying in Ubud – I am a bit uneasy about it, which is why I am here reading about it :).. Josh isn’t opposed to going for the cultural experience..
We will see what our decision is 5 hours from now!
@Caroline And what did you decide?
It is irresistible to many Western travellers to try and immerse themselves in another’s culture. Apart from anything, we try not to be judgmental and to learn from the wonderful aspects of so many cultures unlike our own. We also need to recognise the disappointing facets of each culture (including our own). Cockfighting is a slur on this particular culture and it is illegal.
Westerners attending this barbaric “sport” are endorsing absolute animal cruelty. Would you go to a public stoning in Iran? Or perhaps go along with a tribal doctor to watch an 8y.o girl circumcised in Africa (not that a male would be allowed to see that)? Both of these are cultural also.
The Balinese are lovely and generous….but that doesnt make animal cruelty (or human rights abuses by Indonesia in East Timor for example) acceptable. I am astounded so many of you would consider that to be a cultural “experience. Would you search out a Vietnamese/SE Asian community in Australia or US and take part in an illegal cockfight (no because you would risk jail).
This is animal cruelty…it would be prosecuted in US, Aust, UK etc and is in fact actually illegal in that particular country also as thinking, intelligent people in government have acted appropriately (unlike the western tourists who have decided to flout this country’s laws).
Hi Matt, great story. I went to Bali last year and ended up one day at Tajen in a small village near Ubud. Here is my photo story
http://piotrekziolkowski.com/blog/2014/2/11/cockfighting-in-bali-photographs
Awesome, thanks for sharing.