When I made the decision some months ago to stick around New Zealand for longer than I anticipated, I did so for a variety of reasons- a fantastic circle of friends, a good job opportunity, an unbeatable lifestyle and a New Zealand bucket list that seemed to stretch from Cape Reinga to Bluff. Perhaps unsurprisingly, this bucket list only continues to grow the longer I remain based in beautiful Queenstown.
Over the past year or so I’ve developed a newfound love of the outdoors – it’s easy to do whilst backpacking in New Zealand. Especially here in Queenstown where you’re surrounded by mountains, lakes, multi-day treks, mountain bike trails, rivers and about every outdoor activity you can dream up (and more).
This is a country of jaw-dropping landscapes that only get more iconic the further off the beaten track you go.
High up on my New Zealand bucket list was climbing Mitre Peak. This iconic mountain is found deep in Fiordland National Park on the majestic Milford Sound. The tens of thousands of visitors that arrive in Milford Sound each year know it well, and chances are if you come backpacking in NZ you’ll take in its awe inspiring presence from the comfort of a cruise on Milford Sound (odds favor it to be raining, as Milford Sound gets an astonishing 7 metres of rainfall each year).
Mitre Peak’s summit sits over a vertical mile directly above Milford Sound – 1,692 metres (5,551 feet) above sea level. It’s a hugely demanding climb and one that should not be taken lightly. The track through the thick Fiordland bush is unmarked, the route above the bushline is hugely exposed and it’s a demanding mission regardless of how you tackle it.
Needless to say, I was terribly excited at the prospect of summiting Mitre Peak, yet bloody terrified at the same time.
This isn’t a mountain you’ll decide on a whim to climb; tackling Mitre Peak will take weeks of planning, a clear window of weather, a support crew to bring you to the other side of the sound and a significant level of physical fitness. You’ll also have to be comfortable with significant exposure down the sound thousands of feet below you. As such I was lucky to head up with an experienced crew with plenty of backcountry experience and a solid knowledge of roped climbing.
A number of aspects make climbing Mitre Peak extremely challenging –
- Access: In order to climb the peak, you’ll have to get across sound from the Milford Sound Wharf – you can arrange for kayak hire or a water taxi with a local operator.
- Thick Bush: The track through the bush is essentially unmarked. Enough people attempt the climb each year that much of the bush is tracked over, yet you’ll inevitably stray off the trail. Bush bashing is hugely tiring, especially when you have two days worth of gear in your pack and are gaining significant elevation.
- Lack of Water: Perhaps one of the few tramps or climbs in New Zealand where you’ll have to take all of the water you’ll drink over the course of two days. As you’re climbing a ridge line all the way, fresh water is difficult or impossible to come by.
- Weather: As Milford Sound sees almost 7 metres of rain each year, finding a window of clear and dry days can be challenging. You wouldn’t want to try summiting within hours after a heavy rain as the exposed sections would be especially treacherous.
- Exposure: Whilst this isn’t a technically demanding climb, it is extremely exposed. Ropes are recommended for portions unless you’re a very comfortable climber. Expect ridgelines, scrambles and downclimbs where there are literally thousands of feet between you and the sound below you.
Nevertheless, it’s a fantastic mission and highly recommended. The views are quite simply out of this world.
Arriving at Sinbad River
Climbing Through the Bush
A Taste of What is to Come
After a solid three hours of bashing through thick Fiordland bush we were greeted with the somewhat ominous view of what we would be climbing 24 hours later.
View from Camp at 900 Metres
We arrived at camp after a solid 6 hours of bashing through the bush – absolutely shattered yet quickly rejuvenated by the sunset views. This is about spot 900 metres on the map and there is one more spot to camp about 100 metres further up; we opted to stay here due to fatigue and the thought that this would be more protected from the wind.
The Climb Continues
Here you can see the ridge we will follow and Mitre Peak’s summit in the distance.
Steep Tussocked Ridge
The climb continues here up the steep ridge. This is where the exposure begins; whilst this slope was essentially vertical, there were solid foot and hand holds in the grass. Vertigo begins to set in as you peer down to your right and see the sound and the boats so far below.
Epic views from here and this would be a good spot to turn around if you weren’t keen for serious climbing.
Big View Back Towards Milford Village
Climbing up the ridge – huge view back towards Milford Sound Village and airstrip.
View Opens Up
The view opens up to the snowcapped mountains beyond Milford Village.
Don’t Lean Back
Feeling quite accomplished here, yet very aware the most exposed climbing is yet to come.
Knife Edge Ridge
The following three pictures show the knife-edge ridge you’ll have to scramble across. This is ‘easy’ scrambling with 1 – 1.5 metres worth of rocks to scramble over, yet there are definite ‘airy’ drops on either side: 1,000+ metres to either Milford Sound or Sinbad Gully.
Looking back at the ridge…
Scrambling Across the Ridge – Big Drops on Either Side.
Don’t Look Down…
A taste of the exposure.
Big Drops.
A telling view of the ridgeline we followed up Mitre Peak.
After the hairline ridge (photos above), it was into the harnesses and onto the ropes. It’s one thing to scramble across a ridgeline, yet downclimbing with significant exposure followed by a big climb back up is significantly more wearing – both mentally and physically. If nothing else, the rope provides a false sense of security that results in more confident climbing – crucial under these circumstances.
On the Rope
Can you spot three of us?
Looking Down on Knife Edge Ridge
Here you can see the ridge we crossed, beyond that the bush we bashed through and beyond that Milford Village. The adrenaline was flowing here as we were well and truly exposed.
More Exposure and Rotten Rocks
This was the most challenging section of the climb. The exposure was compounded by rotten rock and wet sections that had been in the shade all day. Big feeling of achievement after we passed through this.
Big View
Looking back on Milford Village
Nearing the Summit
Toshi pops up over the edge as we near the summit.
Big Achievement
As it turns out, we got to within about 45 minutes of the summit but were forced to turn back as we were running short on both time and water – two things you don’t want to risk in an alpine environment. Whilst we all would have liked to sit at Mitre Peak’s proper summit, we were well happy to have made it where we did.
The Down Climb Begins
The grueling downclimb begins. We ultimately spent an extra night on the mountain as we ran out of daylight and had difficulty finding the correct track down through the bush. If you’re climbing Mitre Peak, be sure to make a solid mental note of where you come out of the bush and into the clearings.
Back at the Wharf
Thirsty, hungry and exhausted – delighted to be back to civilization and ready for a pint.
We knew Mitre Peak would be big; as it turns out, the mission ended up being significantly bigger than any of us expected. We were short on food and water and relied on puri-tabs and puddle water to last us for our remaining 12 hours in the bush.
Climbing Mitre Peak was a mission of epic proportions and I’ll forever use ‘epic’ in an entirely different context.
Would you be interested in climbing Mitre Peak? Let us know in the comments section below. Considering it and have questions? Email me at matt at backpackingmatt dot com and I’ll do my best to answer any questions you might have.
Backpacking Matt 
Love this post! Thank you for the inspiring photos and jaw-dropping views. Now I can daydream properly from my desk. 😉
Thank you for sharing your adventures!
Jill
@Jill Thanks! 🙂 Very glad you’ve enjoyed the photos and it provided a bit of a daydream on your Friday! Cheers for the RT too.
What an amazing view! Couldn’t imagine what it be like when cruising by.
@Bobbi Thanks, lovely photos on your blog too from your cruise.
Great photos, I have only seen Mitre Peak from the fiord so it’s great to see it from another perspective.
Hope you don’t mind but I’ve reposted on my own blog at http://tufttystravels.wordpress.com/
Graham
@Graham Thanks mate! Yes, it’s a truly unique view of Milford Sound and surrounds. Highly recommended even to the halfway point above the bushline.
Having seen Mitre Peak from the end of Milford Track (which was easily the most fantastic hike of my life), these pictures make me wish I could go back and try that mountain now! Great photos!
@Matthew Thanks mate! I’ve not done the Milford Trek yet but keen to do it this Autumn. Let us know when you come back, I’ll be well keen for a climb with you!
Gorg pictures, friend! Got your tweet…and am considering NZ next year for Holy Week. Ten or 12 days to get out there should be enough from Spain, right?
@Cat Thanks! DOOO come visit!! I’d say a week minimum on the South Island, more if possible especially since you’re coming from so far.
Awesome article, those pictures really made my heart pound like I was there myself. Would love to try this someday, but I have a long way to go in terms of physical fitness before I can even try 😛
@Matt Cheers, glad the photos brought you up Mitre Peak with me!
I didn’t know it was possible to climb Mitre Peak. Looks like an awesome achievement and it tells a great story.
@David Thanks! It isn’t a marked track, yet can be accessed with a boat trip across the sound.
This looks SO epic. I’ve seen these views, too, but up in a plane – no dangerous climbing required! 😉
These photos are breathtaking! You have inspired me to try and make it to New Zealand and try and experience some of these places myself!
The view from the top is spectacular!
@Brock It is, isn’t it?! Well worth the long slodge through the bush and huge exposure. 🙂
I just want to say how much this blew my mind – I had no idea you could climb this (like if it was allowed or even possible). It seems like almost everyone I talk to I tell about this story and how your pictures just keep getting higher and higher. So jealous… Milford Sound is probably one my favourite spots on Earth!
@Margyle Thanks heaps. 🙂 Glad you enjoyed. Once in a lifetime experience, for sure!
Wow, those are AWESOME photos! I would love to explore New Zealand but some of those photos and climbs scare me a little!
Looks like an epic climb! I think I would feel a little vertigo looking down!
Can I use yr pics for my fb covers? Also for my blog . Very great feat U all accomplished.
I was in Milford recently and never knew you could do this climb.. Did you go with a mountaineering crew? It looks so good, I love the place.
Adam
Matt, I run the kayak company in Milford sound and just to clarify, we do not hire kayaks. We provide a water taxi service and your website is one I will be recommending everyone to look at when they go to climb it. Well done with the photos and description. I have climbed mitre peak 3 times by myself and an aborted mission with my girlfriend because of the exposure and not to take anything away from a lucky few who have made it as far a your team, I have to have bragging rights as I climbed mitre peak in just under 4 hours in bare feet, got bushed on the foot still on the way down so the down climb took 5 and a bit hours. I personally took 4 litres of water for this trip and was out by the end
Cheers for the feedback — glad you enjoyed the post and appreciate you sharing to anyone keen to climb. Barefoot? Why on earth would you climb barefoot?!
Epic, sounds awesome. I’m hoping to climb Mitre Peak in early Jan’ 14. Matt if you’ve got any further tips or contacts would be sweet.
Did you get up Mitre Peak?
Luckily had built enough fat into my Milford trip to sit through some very wet days and had a brief window open up Mon 6-Jan. Unfortunately didn’t make the summit, got about 100m past the notch before turning around (~1400m). A combination of the damp rock, my comfort level and another approaching front led to the difficult decision.
Didn’t do well picking my bush bashing route on the way up, would take more time next time finding a better “track”, so was quite a difficult effort maneuvering with a pack. Left the pack in the boulder zone in the bush not far after the initial bash, returned here later to bivy for the night in shelter of the wind & rain. Picked a different bush bash route down in the rain in the morning (following the orange tape) that was far easier til I lost it and ended up following the water route down and being stuck in a real bush bash to get out to Sinbad River. Was lucky to get some clear views around the fiord, a great spot for lunch up above Milford. Think it was the only day the helicopters were operating first week of the year. Due to the rather mild conditions survived the trip with ~4L of water from Sinbad, didn’t have to resort to any of the many temporary tarns. Maybe another time, maybe from another side?
Wow, sounds like quite the adventure. I’m not certain I’d want to be up their with the slightest bit of rain or wet rock, but glad you enjoyed the trip and made the most of it. Cheers for sharing your post-trip experience.
You continually talk about extreme exposure and knife ridges yet you left Midwest America (i.e. flatland america where there are ZERO mountains, probably Iowa) in only 2007. A knife ridge you cant walk across, you have to straddle it. Exposure is 2000ft off the deck on El Cap, not looking down on grassy tussocks. I believe you when you say it was epic for you cause you apparently have not done much mountaineering. I think the wording in your post is unfair; I dont think you have the qualifications to scare people away from a climb like that. To someone like me who has climbed from Mexico to Canada, Mitre Peak is more doable than you say it is. Not to be underestimated of course, but a good mountaineer never underestimates a mountain. The second you do is the second it will bite you in the butt, or worse. Im just saying your post is relative, very very relative.
Hey Climbedafewmountainsbefore, cheers for the feedback on my trip write up. Not sure what ‘grassy tussocks’ you were referring to, but there were some pretty significant drops up MItre Peak – 3000 feet + either side of the ridge. “Knife Edge” or not, it was an exposed scramble – and not for the inexperienced.
For someone like yourself that has climbed El Capt, you might well be okay climbing up Mitre Peak. Given your experience you’d read my write-up and realize that you have the skills to do it safely. However, I would rather err on the side of caution in describing this as a very serious climb. It is, and outside of experienced climbers it shouldn’t even be attempted by most.
Good old “climbedafewmountainsbefore” sounds a pretty special guy. It must be fantastic being so elite and exclusive and able to look down upon everyone else in such a dismissive fashion from afar having I assume never been to fiordland (or perhaps even NZ). I’m with you Matt, to most people Mitre Peak it is an advanced, tough day(s) out and no place for anyone but a well prepared expert. Great write up
Thanks Mark, I don’t listen to the trolls!
Hi, I really appreciate this story and photos. I would be interested in climbing this mountain but it looks very risky. I think one is much safer on solid granite with a good belay than scrambling on mixed ground above super-slippery snow-grass and sheer drops. A fully belayed climb for those who are skilled on even El Cap may be safer than an unbelayed scramble on terrain such as this? Are there blocks of sound rock frequently along the ridge one could p;ace a sling around to allow proper belaying to fully safeguard against a slip? If so, it is simple enough to carry supplies to last 3 days but the other problem is the sheer scariness of drops far higher than El Cap! (Have seen El Cap, is awesome). I would be too scared to climb this at the moment, though skiing Bluff face at Porters is one way to get used to big drops. Just been past in the boat recently, apparently some people have climbed the west face (that faces the Fiord) of Mitre Peak) over 4 days including having to bivouac in a storm.
Hi Alan – glad you’ve enjoyed the trip write-up. I wouldn’t attempt this unless you were with an experienced group of mountaineers. I’m not, but the group I was with have years of experience in the mountains – climbing, guiding, etc.
Great shots thanks Matt.
Been on my list for ages.
Brings back awesome memories, l climbed Mitre Peak solo in the summer of 1972 when l was working in Milford Sound for The season. Have also climbed the Remarkables several times solo, love Queenstown-Rees-Dart. MtAspiring area. Really enjoyed the pix thanks, they really gave me vertigo again haha.
Hi Lester, I’m so pleased I was able to bring you back to the summer of ’72! Thanks for your comment. 🙂 Happy trails.
Can you recommend who to contact for water taxi service? I have not found anyone who does water taxi in milford sound.
Thanks
Mr. C
Hi Mr C, we had a mate bring us across. I’ve heard of people having luck just hanging around the boat ramp and asking locals / fisherman for a lift across.
That’s amazing!! I’ll probably never attempt it myself but it’s fascinating to see what it’s actually like. What a view.
Hi Matt,
Awesome article, was just wondering about the best place to photograph Mitre Peak from the sound level. I like the photo right a the top of your article, is that an easy place to get to? Any instructions would be great.
Thank you,
Edd
Hi Matt–cool website! What level of expertise would one need to climb Mitre Peak and how large of a group would you recommend?