This is a guest post by Sarah Gonski – contact me if you’re interested in writing for Backpackingmatt.com.
Pizza is to Naples what the cheese steak is to Philadelphia:
Homegrown and perfect; the pride and joy of the culinary scene.
When I was on a short backpacking jaunt through Italy a few weeks ago, I arrived in Naples with one goal in mind: eat pizza.
Scratch that, I had two goals in mind, and the second was: don’t get killed by the Mafia, knocked over by screaming Vespas or get my wallet stolen before I finish eating said pizza.
That might be more than two goals, but forgive me, I wasn’t a math major. The first goal was easy to achieve. I’m not going to sugarcoat it, the others were tougher.
Before I arrived in Naples, I’d done my homework: the most-mentioned pizza joint in the city is the famed L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele, which has been a family business for 141 years now and counting. A longtime local favorite, recently it’s gotten a lot of attention from the international crowd as the site of Elizabeth Gilbert’s (and Julia Robert’s) famed pizza-gasm in Eat, Pray, Love.
The contender for second place is L’Antica Pizzeria e Friggitoria di Matteo, otherwise known as Di Matteo, just a ten-minute walk through the crowded Naples historic district. In business since 1936, it’s hardly a newbie on the scene, and has some dedicated fans of its own.
The mission was clear — consume Da Michele’s pizza. Consume Di Matteo’s pizza. Compare. Contrast. Repeat as necessary.
We went to Pizzeria da Michele on a cold windy night, and spent about 30 minutes waiting in the line that was forming outside. Nearly everyone in the line was Italian – the first good sign.
If the locals are lining up in a town where you can buy pizza about every ten yards, then this was the place I wanted to be.
The place is fairly small, and no frills. The seating is family-style, so there are no private tables, which somehow feels right in extroverted Italy. The menus are single-page printouts hung in 8×10 frames on the walls next to each table. It’s clean and simple because there are only two offerings: Pizza Margherita (sauce, mozzarella and basil) or Pizza Marinara (no cheese).
It was perfect. The crust was chewy on the outside, rolled thin in the middle to let the sauce take center stage. The sauce was delicate and seasoned with a light touch, much thinner and lighter in color than pizza sauces usually are, and it tasted like fresh tomatoes. The cheese was slightly smoky and perfectly melted.
The whole effect was divine.
Hard to top, but we tried anyway. The next stop was Di Matteo for lunch the next day. Again there was a line outside, with only Italian being spoken – good news.
The interior is small, but has an upstairs that the waiters send food to using an old-fashioned pulley system, which undeniably adds both charm and excitement (What if the rope breaks? Can I buy the pizza that falls off at a discount?).
The pizza came in good time, and boy was it good. The crust was thinner and slightly crispier than Da Michele’s, the sauce more robust, with a more intense flavor. The cheese was slightly firmer than the gooey Da Michele version, and the pizza had slightly less of the smoky flavor from the brick ovens.
The case to be made for each:
Da Michele: I like the whole limited-menu thing. It takes cojones to know that your food item is so good that no one needs to even think about ordering something else. The pizza was outrageously delicious. Waiting in line isn’t ideal though, and it seemed that there was always a line.
Di Matteo: More menu options, including a deep fried pizza that’s totally worth the heart attack. They also have private tables, so you don’t have to sit with strangers, which could be a plus or a minus depending on your tastes.
The verdict: I am a Da Michele girl. The best pizza I’ve ever tasted in my life, hands down. It was so good I went back the next day for more.
The second verdict: You can’t go wrong at Di Matteo’s, either.
About the Author: Sarah Gonski writes at Love & Paella about falling in love with the world in general and the south of Spain in particular. She enjoys 80s music, her beloved camera La Rebel, and conjugating Spanish verbs with The Mister. Her cherry chapstick has accompanied her to 24 countries and counting (don’t worry, it wasn’t the same tube).
Mmmmmmm… tasty! God, I love pizza!
I’ll have a mushroom one please 🙂
Thank you for the delicious post! I am an absolute pizza addict and love it in all forms. You have to respect the “original” pie, and even though I have had places here in the states that have been “certified” to serve authentic Neapolitan pizza, I cannot wait to get to Naples and try the real thing, thanks!
Some of best food I had in Italy was on the Amalfi coast, well then there was the fresh sea food in Cinque Terre, and the Gnochii I ate in Roma…actually, in Italy you are assailed by “the best”…How can you really chose??
inquiring minds want to know…are they wood fired?
Sarah, as always, love reading your stuff. Come to Sevilla soon for tapas wars? Or beer wars? Or Sevilla v. Malaga (round Guiri) wars? besos
Looking at those photos of pizza is making me quite hungry. If only I could teleport myself to Naples for dinner.
Thanks everyone! I hope you all get to sample some Naples authentic stuff sometime soon – it’s out of this world.
@maventheavenger – the ovens are big brick ones with wood and crackling flames inside – no electric stuff there!
The way pizza should be! only a few toppings. It is all about the base! I am salivating as I write this! Give me a slice!!!
that looks SO good! pizza is definitely my number ONE to go to Italy!
YUMM!! I am so close to Naples I just can’t believe myself that I haven’t been there yet! I will soon!
We have a little hole-in-the wall Pizzeria Napoletana literally just around the corner from our house and it’s so, so delicious and I say that every time I eat there (which is about twice a week).
I had pizza in Sardinia earlier this week and it was strange it was so thick and cheesy, I forgot that actually we are totally spoiled with our little pizzeria here in Florence!
ohhh man my mouth is watering
I’ve eaten here and loved it.. seriously the best pizza I’ve ever had, and I’ve spent a whole summer in Italy, and a couple of weeks in Naples..
Great shots too btw :]
@Seattle I’m itching to get back to Europe – and the food is one of the many reasons! Glad you enjoyed the post.
That post got my mouth watering.. I love pizzas, especially Italian pizzas – such a perfect crust! However, the Swedish pizzas are not far behind 😉
Da Michele is amazing! I also put it up against Di Matteo and Da Michele won- no questions asked. My last day in Napoli, I planned it so I went for an early lunch/brunch at Da Michele and was just hungry enough to go to Di Matteo before my afternoon bus. It was a funny eating schedule, but I never had to wait in line and I got to enjoy both restaurants again! Yum! 🙂
@ Sofia – will have to try Swedish pizza soon!
@ Amy – that schedule doesn’t sound crazy so much as brilliant.
I’m even a fan of lousy pizza, since even a bad pizza is still pretty good, but if I could get my hands on this primo stuff I’d be in heaven.